My first stop in Paphos was the privately owned ethnographc museum. Housed in the former home of intellectual and polyglot George Eliades, the house is now lived in and opened to the public by his daughter. It’s a fascinating collection of memorabilia collected by George over his lifetime. The dining room with its Viennese textiles is still used for family gatherings.
The amazing archaelogical park aside I wasn’t keen on Paphos, a sprawling mass of new buildings, the small old town had little character. I wanted to try to get a glimpse of Cypriot traditions so I booked a day tour with Sofia and Adamos of @qualidaytours
We started at a family business making Cypruss Delight, Visited an old church ( both these are easily done independently from Paphos, by foot or bus.) we then headed int the mountains and to the quiet village of Letymvou to the home of Sofia and Adamos, around a decade ago when they lost their factory jobs in the city they started making halloumi cheese from local goats milk and bread in their bread oven, the orders flooded in and they now run a lovely business. We ate a breakfast of warm bread, fresh doughnuts, cheese, olives and home made jams before being show the wonderful, traditional village house with many of the woven textiles having been loomed by Sofia and her mother,
Nestled amongst forested mountains west of Paphos lies the saint Neophytos monastary. Founded by a reclusive monk who in the 12th century carved a church out of a cave. The cave and ecclesiastical museum are well worth the 2 euro entrance charge.
