I have lived in Budapest for many years and seen massive changes, many for the better with the restoration of many of the architectural gems the opening of hotels, bars and restaurants to rival those in any capital of Western Europe. But, perhaps inevitably, it’s harder to find places bursting with character. Some absolute gems have been replaced by bland, interior -designed places of mass appeal. It’s not the bargain it used to be thanks in part to years of a corrupt government and a failing economy. Restaurants, museums, the basilica and synagogues are expensive even compared with other European cities. Public transport is cheap and excellent- its worth getting a pass if you are staying for a few days. And, it’s a beautiful city, still with much to recommend it.
A wonderful city of contrasts; buzzing Pest with its grand boulevard, impressive architecture and buzzing nightlife and the more sedate, greener Buda with its rolling hills, elegant villas and the castle district. From the Roman ruins of Obuda to the ruin bars, of the old Jewish quarter. From classical music in elegant surroundings to Balkan beats in basement bars. There are lots of plush hotels, Michelin starred restaurants and posh shops but there are also nooks and crannies, designer markets, vintage shops and cosy meeting places.
Its’ small size, the pedestrianisation of many areas and beautiful buildings means that it’s a great city to see on foot, with the occasional tram or metro ride thrown in ( make sure you validate your tickets on public transport and download a reputable taxi app -I use Bolt).
My favourite wandering areas are around the 7th (old Jewish) district, the streets between Vaci utca and Museum Korut ( Egyetem ter, Karoly kert, the old Serbian church) and the 8th district, Brody Sandor and behind the National museum and around Mikszath Kalman Ter. The area behind Rakoczi ter, once no -go is now worth a wander up to to Matyas square with its park and pavement cafes.
Here are my recommendations. They are not meant to be exhaustive. I haven’t included the usual ” To dos” in Budapest, many of which are well worth seeing,
– Pick your subject (Jewish Budapest, Art Nouveau etc.) and take a walking tour . “Free Walking Tours” ( payment by donation are good but there are others)
-Take the number 2 tram from Jaszai Mari Ter to the Great market hall, with stunning views of Parliament, the Danube and the Castle district across the river. The great market hall is no longer the draw that it once was, its a good spot for edible souvenirs, the pickle stalls are downstairs in the basement. Avoid the overpriced, touristy restaurants upstairs and instead head to the area around Miksazth kalman Ter or Egyetem Ter or Brodt House for lunch
–Soak and sauna in the grand Art Nouveau Gellert spa ( currently under renovation) the baroque Szecheyni baths or one of the Turkish baths. Tuesday is womens day at the Rudas baths and I love it. For a less touristy (and cheaper) bathing expeerience try the Dandar or Veli Bej (Turkish)
– Stroll the seventh district, taking in the synagogues, ruin bars and the nooks and crannies of the old Jewish quarter.
– Wonder at the old palaces in the palace/Palota district (not to be confused with castle district), home of the National Museum. Visit the Wenckheim Palace, a Neo-Baroque masterpiece which now houses the Szabo Ervin library.
-Visit Kerepesi cemetery for a fascinating walk through the final resting places of the great and good of Hungary; ornate mausoleums, Soviet graves, Communist pantheon and the graves of many famous Hungarians. The Jewish cemetery a bit further out of town has some magnificent art deco mausoleums
-Combine a visit to one of the composers memorial museum- houses combined with a short concert;
In the memorial house museums of Frank Liszt for a Short Saturday morning concert and then a trip to the market on the producers street market on Hunyadi ter, you can drink a coffee in the park, there is usually a performance in the bandstand in the square on Saturday mornings
– Hike the Buda Hills, there are many routes, the easiest without hiking maps is to take the cog wheel up to the top, walk via Normafa to the chairlift and take the chairlift down. or take the childrens railway from Huvosvolgy and the cog wheel down .
Zsivago Atmosphere and decor of a 1920s salon. Charming and cosy. Tea served in vintage china. Quiet music in the background, occasional live music in the evenings
Hintalo Iszoda Cosy roller -painted walls and retro furniture. Good selection of drinks including organic wines, in a back street in the eighth district
Ruin bar vibes in Csendes, a wonderful former grand coffee house. In the summer they have an outdoor wine bar just round the corner at the entrance to Karoly Kert
Retro vibes at Bambi a Budapest institution close to the Danube on the Buda side
For summer sips try Ko Leves or The Rakpart– the road running alongside the Danube between Vigado Ter and Erzsebet bridge which is now pedestrianised on summer evenings-buy a drink from the bars housed in the arches below the tram rails or bring your own picnic its a lively space with Djs, yoga classes and improptu entertainment
Budapest is famous for its elegant turn- of the- century coffee I would skip the famous Gerbeaud and the stunning New York Coffee house, both overcrowded and overpriced. The Astoria is a better option. The Szamos Szepkilatas cafe/ cake shop on the Buda side is a good option if you are coming down from the hills by cogwheel. Auguszt serves delicious cakes in elegant surroundings, the prettiest of which is Auguszt Pavillion on the Buda side which has a lovely garden
Recent years has seen an explosion in the number of high- end restaurants in Budapest. Some are excellent , others are more about the glitz and fancy interior design. The Michelin recommended and starred offer consistent standards.
Many restaurants offer a very good value set lunch menu. I have changed my Budapest restaurant recommendations many times. Michelin starred restaurants aside many others struggle with consistent standards.
Goli Delicious Mediterranean plates in a busy, noisy, friendly and fun environment.
Retek, centrally located, elevated Hungarian food in retro themed restaurant. Annoying 15% service charge ( but they do give a free shot of palinka with the bill) and expensive filtered water.
Caffe’ GianMario Busy, buzzing Italian restaurant, great pizzas and daily specials including seafood. Frequented by a regular Italian crowd. Italian football matches shown on the large screens
Pizzica, delicious, fresh slices of pizza on a light, crispy base to eat in or take away
Lots of options from the opulence of the 5 star hotless to a range of apparttemnets. Districts 1,5,6,7, the inner 8th are the most central.
Brody House,
Bohemian chic in this boutique hotel in the Palace district would be my top pick. Cosy bar and a quiet courtyard
Stroll along Falk Miksa street popping into galleries and antique shops
Omama Antik- A great selection of 20th century vintage jewellery, accessories and clothing
1001 kefe (1001 brushes)– Hand made natural brushes of all types, shapes and sizes
Ecseri market- Flea markets come and go in Budapest but Ecseri stays, it’s quite a trip from the centre of town. Best on a Saturday morning. There are a number of permanent textile stalls. It is a favourite for set designers. There a boot sale come flea market section in a carpark just round the corner, open Saturdays only
Antik Placc– an antique and design Market on Sundays, small but central.
Budai Zsib Vasar– A colourful flea market on the Buda side
Hatsuka Vintage Shop– Fabulous selection of vintage clothes curated by Ani
Momoko Vintage– great selection of vintage clothes and accessories
Fabrika vintage– furniture and accessories
ValiFolkart– tucked away in a courtyard off the mainly tacky Vaci utca. The owner has been collecting and dealing in textiles from Hungary and Transylvania for many years.
Makers Market– Monthly Sunday market on the Buda side
Folkart Craftsmens House– Long established shop selling authentic folk craft from Hungary and Transylvania, mostly new things, authentic, nothing made in China here! Some old items too. The owner is knowledgeable and passionate about folk art
Agnes Toth studio -Agi takes heritage embroidery made by her grandmother and her own paintings and embroideries and digitalises it into fabrics silk scarves , bags and
home furnishings
Hollo Muhely– Hand painted Folkart furnutre and gifts
Markets are the best and there are plenty to choose from, here are a few
Hunyadi Ter , street market with local producers. Inexpensive. best on Saturdays especially in Spring when many of the sellers sell flowers along with other produce. The adjacent park often has short concerts on saturday morning
Szimpla Kert, the bustling organic market on Sunday mornings, the best time to explore the first ruin pub in Budapest. Often with live music. A great
atmosphere.
Okopiac.hu a large Saturday morning organic market on the Buda side
Lehel Ter market , open daily, the most authentic relatively central Hungarian food market in Budapest
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