The Appropriation of Irasos ( written embroidery) Designs from Kalotaszeg.
Irasos or written embroidery is one of the defining elements of traditional folk culture in Kalotaszeg, a region of Transylvania with a majority ethnic Hungarian population. The embroidery adorns people houses, the churches and even somtimes the clothing.
Last year the fast fashion chain Mango produced a jacket with a design that looks very similar to the irasos patterns. The local community were upset at what they saw and a collection of artisans, researchers ( myself included) wrote to @mango and after a very long wait @mango replied and dismissed the claim that their design was based upon the patterns of Kalotaszeg.
This is not the first time that large, usually luxurious, fashion chains have been appropriating the designs of communities in Romania and elsewhere without giving credit. Its very difficult for small communities to have their voices heard. Here is a short video with interviews with women from the Kalotaszeg community. Peopple in Kalotaszeg have a strong emotional connection with this embroidery, its part of their heritage and something they feel rightly proud of.