From south to north in the worlds only divided capital city. We walked across the green line in the UN-controlled buffer zone at the Lefkosa crossing into a bustling warren of shops, many selling cheap counterfeit goods, exchange offices, and cafes very touristy and a bit tacky but 5- 10 minute walk from the gate we were in for a lovely surprise of stunning architecture ( 672 noteworthy buildings in the walled city), quiet streets, very few cars. mosques, shaded gardens and museums ( very promising but unfortunately closed for Ramadam). Reminiscent of Turkey in the 1980s but with a deep sense of sadness in the air. Peaceful and welcoming by day but wth an edge in the air come dusk.
A few of the old Ottoman houses have been converted into boutique hotels. We stayed in Eagle Eye Nicosia, near to the Girne gate as we wanted to catch a bus early the following morning. We ate at a nearby grill restaurant; harsh lighting, no alcohol, simple tasty food. There are more sophisticated options but mostly nearer to the green line. We drank coffee and had cocktails in the old Armenian quarter.
We visited at Ramadam when all the museums were closed but it was still well worth a visit just to view the buildings, we peeped into courtyards, through windows and with the information displayed and that which we had access to online we got more than a taste.
We had a jolly time drinking Turkish tea with @iskemle_chair, working in a bank by day on weekdays he continues his family business of rush seating, employing an apprentice, we stopped by on a Saturday and he was really happy to show us his workshop.
We got a dolmus ( local minibus taxi) to .Kyrenia, quick, cheap and very easy. Kyrenoa, a pretty, sheltered port, was a disappointment, full of casinos, boutiques selling counterfeit goods, a playground for the rich and wanted. It didn’t help that the beach area was under renovation and boarded up. We booked a hotel in the hills but it was early season and they had made a mistake with the opening dates and we were ended ( with the bonus pf a complimentary chauffer and half board) up staying at The Savoy Hotel and Spa, their sister hotel in town, the food was an amazing..
Bellapais, immortalised by Lawrence Durell in Bitter Lemons had beautiful views, a magnificent abbey and a nice little shop packed to the rafters with vintage bits and pieces. Cobbled streets and whitewashed houses, quiet and pretty.
We walked back to Kyrenia stopping at Ezic Peanuts for lunch on the way, good food, even better view.